Weaponizing the Canik TP9SFX by MDI_Weapon
- sousatactical
- Sep 20
- 4 min read
Updated: Sep 28
If you want the easy route to a lighter trigger, one that doesn't require soldering up a ring, go to Academy Sports and check out the fishing section for Eagle Claw Lazer #2 oval split rings (I am assuming they still carry them as I bought ten packs of them back then as I knew some other guys at the local USPSA range would likely want to try it as well). They are just about the perfect size to fit in the gap in the ejector block while also being the right size to relieve the tension on the trigger return spring after adding an aftermarket trigger without potentially causing other headaches. A standard (round) no. 2 split ring will also work but the oval one relieves just a slight bit more tension.
The EC Lazer No 2 oval split ring is the one that is still in my ver. 1.0 SFx and SFx Rival and both triggers break under 2lbs (the Sfx has been as low as 1lb 3oz but some other mods are certainly required to get that light)
Canik Barrel Reaming Service
The Canik Rival's chambers have much less leade than older Caniks (like the first gen SFX), and that can cause some issues if you are used to loading your ammo a bit longer for USPSA, you get some coating thickness variations with coated bullets and/or you use some type of match chamber gauge to check your ammo after loading it. After playing around with some shorter loads, I decided to have my Rival's barrel reamed so I started looking for someone to do the job. I am normally 100% DIY but the math on this was fairly simple -- I only had one barrel I needed reamed and having it done was much less expensive than buying a custom reamer.
The next problem was finding someone with the right kind of reamer who was also willing to do a Canik barrel. If you have never had a barrel reamed, some shops will not touch it if it is hard coated/melonite/DLC, etc. as those wear out reamers. Luckily, Patriot Defense offers exactly the service I wanted.
Their description: "We utilize our custom 9mm Match Finish Reamer to ensure we bring your undersized chamber back to SAAMI spec while still maintaining the accuracy you demand. Chamber will be sized properly and the “leade” lengthened to allow a much greater range of projectiles and OAL to be utilized. This service will greatly increase reliability in guns with short or no “leade” and has no negative affect on accuracy."
link:
So, I shipped it off and their turn around was incredibly quick. Before and after? Just to give you an idea of the increase in leade, I have been playing around with some 135gr jacketed TC bullets. Before reaming, they wouldn't pass a plunk and spin test in the Rival's barrel at 1.085" (even though that length would easily drop in and out of a Dillon 9mm match chamber gauge). After the reaming service, I can load out to 1.115" with no problems. That may not sound like much but this particular bullet has kind of a funky ogive so it is much more of a difference than it sounds. I'll try some other bullets and post the result for those later as I have to get some ammo loaded for my next match. As they claim, I have noticed no change in accuracy.
Problem solved. Well, not really. I finally got my Rival Dark Side lined out to exactly where I wanted it just in time for Canik to release the Rival-S...so I will likely get to rinse and repeat this process soon.
Note for Reloaders...
If you are switching over from an older Canik (like a first gen SFx) to a newer model (like the SFx Rival), make sure you do a plunk and spin test with your loads in the new pistol's barrel. Basically all of my older Caniks (TP9 v2, TP9 SF, TP9 SF Elite, TP9 SFx gen 1) had fairly long leades and I could get away with really long COALs....then, I got an SFx Rival and quickly discovered that loading longer than book COALs was not going to work as you will end up with the bullet hitting the lands. Oops.
I haven't found this to be a problem with any factory loads but if you are loading your own ammo for USPSA and using a bullet with a slightly less forgiving ogive, it could very well cause some problems.
Solutions:
load to book COAL and then plunk and spin test them in your barrel just to make sure (they will pass a Dillon match case gauge but the Rival's barrel is tighter than that and you can still end up with the bullet in the lands). Adjust as necessary and leave yourself a few extra thousands under your max COAL as a safety margin.
Have your barrel reamed for a longer leade...then plunk and spin test various load lengths to see what you can get away with after the reaming. Adjust as necessary and, once again, leave yourself a few extra thousands under your max COAL as a safety margin.
This is especially important if you are using coated bullets (aka Blue Bullets, ACME, etc.) that may have some variations in coating thickness.
Weaponized details and posts are courtesy of our good friend MDI_Weapon, Team Canik Fanatik since 2015
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